Dazaifu Usokae

Bullfinch-exchanging ceremony at Dazaifu Tenmangu to replace bad luck with good.

Dazaifu Usokae is a captivating religious festival held annually on January 7th at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka, Kyushu. This unique event, whose name translates to "Exchanging Bullfinches," boasts a rich history deeply rooted in the veneration of Sugawara no Michizane, the shrine's deified scholar. Legend tells of bullfinches protecting Michizane during his exile, while a clever wordplay links "uso" (bullfinch) to "uso" (lie or bad fortune). Participants seek to exchange the previous year's "lies" for "truth" and good luck in the new year. Visitors can expect a vibrant evening atmosphere beginning around dusk, with the shrine grounds bustling with eager participants. The highlight is undoubtedly the "Usokae" ritual itself, a lottery-like exchange where attendees bring their old wooden bullfinches to swap for new ones, all while shouting "Kaemasho, kaemasho!" (Let's exchange!). The ultimate prize is a special "golden uso," believed to bring exceptional fortune. Experiencing this ancient tradition offers a profound glimpse into Japanese spiritual culture. For those planning to attend, practical tips are essential. Arrive early, ideally several hours before dusk, as tickets for the exchange are limited and queues form quickly. Be prepared for significant crowds and a potentially long wait. January evenings in Fukuoka are cold, so dress in warm layers. Public transportation, particularly the Nishitetsu Dazaifu Line, offers convenient access directly to the shrine. Remember to maintain respectful decorum throughout this cherished religious ceremony.